vinyl graphic and lettering was cut with the discontinued 24" CE-5000-60
Graphtec vinyl cutter but the methods are still basically done in the
same way as any of the cutters we currently offer at here Alpha Supply
is the step-by-step of how we made the shirt.
How It's Done
A design has been selected and laid out
After laying out, we reversed everything
We are using the Graphtec Cutting Master 2 Plug-in module, along with CorelDraw 11
CorelDraw 10 and up (Windows only) works with Cutting Master 2
The design has been cut with the Graphtec CE-5000-60 cutter plotter
We are using premium CADflex black vinyl for our transfer
From start to finish, the design only took 20 seconds to cut
Using the "media cutter" we are starting to slice off the cut section from the roll
We have started the weeding process by gently lifting up a corner of the vinyl and pulling the unwanted vinyl off
After we pull the big piece off we'll go back and get the small pieces (like inside the "O's)
Many use pics and tweezers for weeding but we like Exacto knives, with pointed blades
We are using
a 15x15 HIX HT-400P heat press in our demonstration (you can read
about this press and the 16x20 HT-600P at "HIX
Heat Presses" on this site).
The digital press has been set to 305° and 12 seconds. Using the pressure gage on the press, pressure has been set at 4.
To make it easier to slide shirts on and off the press, we have put a Teflon cover on the bottom platen (it fits like a fitted sheet, except the top is pure Teflon.
A side view of the HIX HT-400P. Notice that the bottom platen is elevated (1.5") off the frame. This can be a real advantage and we'll show you why later.
The bottom platen sits on two steel rocker arms. This allows the bottom platen to tilt slightly as the press is closed and equalizes pressure.
The shirt is a Gildan Ultra 2000, 100% cotton shirt. We are getting ready to do a "pre-press" by bringing the top platen down and just touching the shirt for 2 seconds.
Pre-pressing is done to eliminate any moisture, which can interfere with the "stick" of vinyl or heat transfers. It is not necessary to lock the press.
The design has been centered correctly and we are almost ready to press it.
Centering vinyl is fairly easy (you can see through the plastic carrier sheet). Most "crooked work" happens because the shirt is crooked on the press, rather than the design
If you think you need help, check out the Tee Square It, under "Designing Made Easy"
We always put a Teflon cover sheet over any heat transfer work.
A Teflon sheet doesn't cost much and can be reused many thousands of times.
The shirt has been pressed and removed from the heat press.
CADflex vinyl must be peeled cold. We waited about 2 minutes. If your vinyl starts to come up when you peel the carrier, just gently press the vinyl back down and re-press about 6 sec.
Now we are getting ready to put a name on the other side of the shirt. It's easy to pull the shirt onto the bottom platen (like an ironing board).
We sell many fine heat presses, from three different manufactures. However, only the HIX HT-400P, HT-600P and S-650P (16x20 auto-opening) clamshell presses offer a large space under the bottom platen to make "splitting a shirt" fast and easy.
The name has been placed on the back of the shirt. We're following the exact same procedures and methods that we used to transfer to the front of the shirt.
Most work is just on one side of a shirt. However, when you need to do both sides, our demonstrated method of shirt-splitting makes the job "easier than eatin' a plate of grits".
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